This is where the per-ounce prices start to shift. A mushroom that loses more weight in the pan takes more raw ounces to fill a cooked cup, so its real cost goes up.
To measure that shrinkage we used USDA FoodData Central, which publishes lab-analyzed records for raw and cooked mushrooms. The relevant records are raw and stir-fried white mushrooms, raw and grilled portabella, and raw cremini. There's no cooked cremini record in the database, so, as planned, cremini borrows the white-mushroom cooking factor. That's a reasonable stand-in for two mushrooms of nearly identical water content, but it's still a stand-in.
Working out the cooking yield two ways
We calculated how much of the raw weight survives cooking in two independent ways, using the paired raw and cooked records in USDA FoodData Central.
- Protein basis. Protein doesn't evaporate. If raw white mushrooms are 3.09% protein and stir-fried ones are 3.58%, the cooked mushrooms must be about 86.3% of their raw weight.
- Dry-solids basis. Everything that isn't water should also survive the pan. Raw white mushrooms are 7.55% solids and stir-fried ones 8.90%, which points to 84.8%.
For white mushrooms the two methods agree within about a point and a half, which is reassuring. For portabella they're further apart: 64.3% on the protein basis and 76.9% on the solids basis. That's why the portabella column below gives a range rather than a single number. We used the midpoint of the two methods as the main figure for each mushroom.
We also checked the boiled white-mushroom record, and it failed. On the protein basis it implies the mushrooms gain 42% in weight when boiled, which isn't possible if protein is conserved. Its solids basis, though, gives 84.6%, almost exactly matching the stir-fry. Our best reading is that protein seeps into the cooking water, so for boiled mushrooms solids are the more reliable measure. That's also why we used the stir-fried record as the white reference.
The worksheet
Here's how to read it. A cooked cup of sliced white mushrooms weighs about 108 grams and starts as about 4.45 ounces of raw mushrooms, which is just over half of an 8-ounce package. At the year's advertised price, that's about $1.05. The same cup made from cremini costs about $1.14.
Portabella shrinks more and its cooked cup is heavier, because thick grilled slices pack more densely. So it takes about 6 ounces of raw portabella, roughly one whole 6-ounce package, to fill a cooked cup, and at the year's advertised price that comes to about $2.76. Per raw ounce, portabella cost 1.9 times as much as white. Per cooked cup, it costs about 2.6 times as much.
Quick conversion: an 8-ounce package of white or cremini mushrooms cooks down to roughly 1.8 cups. A 6-ounce package of portabella comes out closer to 1 cup.
If you cook your mushrooms down further than USDA's stir-fry sample, until they're deeply browned and much smaller, all three will cost more per cooked cup in about the same proportion. The actual dollar amounts would rise, but the order and the gaps between them wouldn't change much.
If you've wondered more broadly how cooking changes what's on your plate, our look at foods that shift when heated covers some of the same ground.
Raw vs. Cooked: The Foods That Get More Nutritious When You Heat Them