You are standing in front of forty red-and-white cans, and every one of them is telling you something. Hearty. Chunky. Rich. Reduced sodium. Twenty-four grams of protein. The front of the label is a sales pitch, and the back of the label is an accounting document, and the two are not always describing the same product.
Here is the thing about soup: nobody buys it for one nutrient. You buy it because it is eleven o'clock at night, or because it is the only thing in the cupboard, or because it is cold and you want something warm that takes ninety seconds. Soup is a convenience purchase, and convenience purchases are the ones we never audit.
So we audited them. Not on sodium alone, which tells you very little by itself, and not on protein alone, which tells you almost as little. We divided one by the other. The result is a single number — milligrams of sodium per gram of protein — that answers the question you were actually asking when you picked the can up: what am I getting for the salt?
That number is not printed on any can in America. It is not on the panel, not on the shelf tag, not in the marketing copy. We built it from the manufacturers' own filed labels, for forty cans spanning the aisle, and what came back was a 215-fold spread between the best row and the worst.
What follows is the countdown, from the can that gives you the most protein per milligram of sodium all the way down to number one, which gives you the least. The numbers behind every row are printed alongside it, so you can check our arithmetic against the can in your hand.